Tuscany for Gay Visitors

by Valerio, Residenza al Fillungo, Lucca.

Many writers and poets of all times have tried to describe Tuscany. I would simply say that this very special part of world is a land of richly varied landscapes, united all by a characteristic sweetness. Here, in quite a small area, you will find the essence of thousands of years of man's artistic activity, often at its very best levels. But Tuscany has for centuries been a preferred destination for international tourists not only for all this, but also for its amazing pleasantness and, not least of all, for its unique capacity to make people of varied origins feel at home.

For many years these characteristics have also drawn numerous gay tourists to the area, some of whom have chosen to make this their home, and the region continues to entice many with its special allure. The Tuscan gay and lesbian community, of which the Pink Lily is a symbol, is formed by several thousand people, and comprises more than a few foreigners. Homosexuality rarely encounters open hostility here, although on occasion it may fail to be openly acknowledged.

The gay and lesbian public will find many sites of interest, even beyond Florence and the other principal cities in which the gay scene is concentrated, like Pisa, Viareggio, Lucca, Prato or Siena, described here in separate sections. From ancient Etruscan cities, like Volterra or Cortona, panoramic and rich in archaeological treasures and medieval monuments, to the numerous and enchanting medieval centres, of which San Gimignano with its soaring towers is perhaps the best example.

There are also peaceful Renaissance cities, like Montepulciano and Pienza, with their palaces and beautiful squares, Vinci, the birthplace of Leonardo, and the various Medici villas located between Florence and the Montalbano hills.

All of these offer the possibility to enjoy days filled with nature and culture while savouring the local culinary traditions.

For a romantic outing, you may go to characteristic and panoramic hill-towns such as Fiesole, the green acropolis hovering over Florence, to Poppi, in Casentino near Arezzo, or to Barga, in the green Garfagnana valley, in the province of Lucca. For unspoiled natural settings, there is the island of Elba, with its woods and seascapes, and the Tyrrhenian coast, from the pine forests of the Versilia riviera to those of the Maremma, well-frequented by gays and lesbians in season. For more solitary vacations, there are the mountains beloved by gay hiking groups: from the marble Apuan Alps or the Apennine mountain range above Lucca or near Pistoia, where one can ski in winter, to the National Park of the Casentinese forests and Pratomagno, not far from Florence and Arezzo.

Most famous of all are, however, the Tuscan hills, especially those of the Chianti and the province of Siena, home to the most celebrated wines in Italy, where one may vacation on farms or go horseback riding, visit the idyllic abbey of Sant'Antimo or the gothic ruins of San Galgano with its chapel of the sword in the stone, and the abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore with its seductive frescoes by Sodoma. Finally, one can relax in the hot springs at Petriolo or Saturnia, even by night.

May you find your own road with sites and people to your liking, in surprising and romantic Tuscany.

A Short History of Homosexuality in Tuscany

From the Middle Ages, Florence has been one of the cities in Europe with the worst (or best!) reputation regarding homosexuality, to the point that the medieval German verb florenzen, "to Florentinize", also meant "to sodomize."

Ever since the Etruscan period, Tuscan lands seem to have been quite open from this point of view, as the homoerotic paintings in the Tomb of the Bulls at Tarquinia demonstrate. Medieval Florence was accused of being too tolerant a city in dealing with the sin of "sodomy."

Saint Bernardino of Siena, in a sermon of 1425, lamented that outside of Tuscany people complained that this matter was not punished enough here. In reality there existed from 1325, as in all of Europe, very severe laws, with such punishments as castration and hanging, which however were applied only in cases of rape, seduction of a minor or "public scandal."

At the same time, the Florentine State possessed a special militia, the Uffiziali di notte, who had among their duties the repression of homosexual acts, although penalties mainly consisted of fines. Despite the existence of a tolerant popular culture, fined people were numerous, among them even Leonardo da Vinci, Sandro Botticelli and Benvenuto Cellini (twice!).

Renaissance Florence already had a true gay subculture: they met each other in appropriate taverns, or cruised in Borgo Santi Apostoli, Calimala and behind Piazza della Signoria in search of sexual partners. The ancient Greek social model prevailed, with an adult "lover" and an adolescent "beloved."

Historian Michael Rocke has calculated that between 1478 and 1483 more than half of Florentine youths were involved in mainly outdoor homosexual acts and denounced to the Uffiziali di notte, while lesbian relationships were mostly bounded within the privacy of one's home, or in the girls' boarding-schools and nunneries. Hence also the production of literary works with homosexual themes, rich in double entendres and jokes, even obscene ones, or homoerotic poetry, among which the sonnets of Michelangelo are famous.

In the 17th century Luca Ombrosi compiled a tract against the Medici accusing the last scions of the great house of this nefarious vice. Gian Gastone, the last Grand Duke of the family, was a notorious homosexual, who filled the Pitti Palace with his favourites, chosen in the streets.

The anti-homosexual laws were repealed as early as 1795 by Grand Duke Ferdinand III, so Tuscany was among the first states in the world to stop the persecution of gays. 19^th-century Tuscany was even host to a colony of foreign homosexuals, above all British, punishable in their homeland.

Among them, for the first time, some out lesbians such as, later, the novelist Radclyffe Hall. In the first half of the 20^th-century gay artists, including the writers Gadda and Palazzeschi and the painter Rosai, participated in a new cultural flowering.

The park of the Cascine in Florence and the pine forest in Viareggio became popular places for night encounters and, in a novel by Gabriele D'Annunzio, a "house with boys" in the center of Florence is mentioned.

After Fascism, and the possibility of being condemned to exile in case of "public scandal," in the '50s there was a cultured and rich élite with discreet clubs while others frequented open-air spaces, a division which finally ended in the '70s with the birth of groups and public spaces exclusively for gays. In the last 30 years dozens of gay clubs have opened throughout the region.

Decriminalized more than 200 years ago, homosexuality is generally tolerated. Gay and lesbian rights, both at home and in the workplace, are basically protected against unconstitutional discrimination. Tuscan State prohibits discrimination against homosexuals with special laws. Many cities register domestic partnerships, and they have also been approved by the Tuscan Parliament but they are not yet sanctioned by Italian national laws, so they are recognized just locally. Gay marriage or adoption remains impossible.

Sexual acts are legal among consenting adults over 16. Gay or straight sex openly made in public is illegal. Prostitution is legal if not organized by third parties. Pornography is legal over 18, and it’s to be found at newsstands and in sex shops.

Florence

"Oh my Florentine land
you art both sweet and gay.
Abundantly dost thou
Delight in ev'ry wealth.
'Oh how thou are a Queen,'
the wisest sages say."
Chiaro Davanzati, c. 1260

Florence's relationship with gays and lesbians is, and always has been, a bit special, not only with those who live here but also with those who are just visiting. The City of the Lily, famous as a centre for the arts, culture and social life, and characterized by its liberality and tolerance, in fact would seem to be a perfect match for the needs of same-sex oriented people.

And, aside from problems that may be found in any modern big city or result during periods of excessive tourism, the birthplace of the Renaissance can still offer the proper setting for an enjoyable and stimulating sojourn for gays and lesbians. The capital of Tuscany is not just its thousand artistic masterpieces or the rolling hills of its surrounding countryside; it is also its accepting populace and its charming ambience, with lively cultural happenings and musical events, major exhibitions of art, antiques, crafts, fashion and ecology, excellent cuisine and shopping.

The gay and lesbian community comprises several thousand people and various social and political organizations which are traditionally open to the many visitors who choose to vacation, study or work here, and who may even find themselves at the centre of the local gay and lesbian scene! Yearly gay film festivals and monthly large alternative gay, or bear parties are regularly hold in town.

Florence at First Sight

To discover Florence is to discover, beyond its gay and lesbian scene, its artistic treasures and its way of life. Getting a good idea of the city requires at least one week, in which visits to the most important museums and monuments could be alternated with panoramic walks in its hills, tastes of the famous Tuscan cuisine and visits to its shops and artisans' workshops, which constitute one of its most unique aspects. In addition, there are many more specific points of interest and possible itineraries for gay and lesbian tourists.

For the artistic masterpieces, every good guide book offers a list and descriptions of the must-see monuments, like the Cathedral, Bell-Tower and Baptistry, the churches of Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo and the Medici chapels, the Uffizi Gallery, the various museums at the Pitti Palace, including the Boboli Gardens, or the Palazzo Vecchio, the Bargello Museum and the Accademia Gallery. Our scope here is to offer some suggestions for sites that may be of particular interest for gays and lesbians.

Even if you only have a few days in Florence, you will be interested in visiting masterpieces by the great Florentine gay artists. For example Michelangelo: the Casa Buonarroti contains many of his works, including a portrait drawing of his beloved Tommaso Cavalieri attired as Cleopatra, and the youthful and powerful Battle of the Centaurs. In addition to the celebrated David and the great Prisoners at the Accademia, you can see his sensual Bacchus at the Bargello, or the refined Victory at the Palazzo Vecchio, where he is accompanied by Vincenzo de' Rossi's "SM" statues of the Labours of Hercules.

To discover the life of Leonardo, a visit to the small museums in his hometown of Vinci is highly recommended. In Florence, three great works by him can be seen at the Uffizi, with their poetic landscape backgrounds, sweet angels and shyly smiling Madonnas.

We also recommend an itinerary based on the theme of the nude figure in art, starting with Masaccio's highly naturalistic Adam and Eve in the Brancacci chapel at the Carmine church. Next, visit Donatello's provocative David at the Bargello. In Piazza della Signoria alone, you may see about twenty examples of nudes, in every conceivable position, from Ammannati's majestic Neptune to Cellini's athletic Perseus, to the virile backside of the Roman abductor in Giambologna's Rape of the Sabine. There is also the energetic and fascinating - but dressed - Judith by Donatello: the same heroine is immortalized in paintings in the Uffizi and Pitti Palace by Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the earliest and most interesting women artists.

For decorative arts, after a visit to the Bargello or the Opera del Duomo, one should not miss the gold- and silversmiths' workshops in the area around the Ponte Vecchio and via Lambertesca, the woodcarvers' shops in the Oltrarno, leather shops throughout central Florence, and the high fashion designers around via Tornabuoni.

It is no coincidence that Florence was the birthplace of Gucci, Ferragamo, Pucci and Coveri, and the city offers one of the best selections of quality shopping in Europe.

Florence is also jogging in the park of the Cascine or along the Arno, or a visit to the Belvedere Fortress to lie out on its lawns and view the city below. For lunch at 1pm or dinner after 8, lose yourself in the pleasures of the table in a good restaurant or trattoria, or in one of the characteristic wine bars (fiaschetterie and enoteche), where you can savour the flavours of Tuscan wines and cuisine, from crostini to soups, to hearty steaks.

Then off to the clubs, in search of a David, or, for girls, a Florentine Madonna… 

Florence for Those Who Love Her

For both those who return often, and already know her charms, and those who live here, the city still holds surprises: lesser known monuments, corners, views, events, and cultural opportunities that are easily overlooked. For this reason we always advise tourists searching a more authentic experience of the city to go beyond the usual sites and stay away from seeing it from within a group tour.

The Florentines appreciate sensible tourists, but continue to keep the best of the city for themselves, sharing it only with the patient and curious few. Following the people in their habits and to their favourite places, you will really taste the art of living here, and even make some friendly acquaintances.

The great tradition in figurative art survives in the works of the many fine young artists, recognized or less recognized, among which many are gay or lesbian. Their exhibitions in many of the galleries or cafés are really worth a visit. The Florentines' love for fashion and decorative arts is well known through the ages. Consider for example a cross section of its evolution, visiting the Museum of the Florentine House at Palazzo Davanzati, a fully furnished 15^th century residence, soon to be reopened after restoration, the European and exotic treasures of the Stibbert Museum, or the Pitti Palace’s prestigious Costume Gallery, rich with splendid outfits particularly from the 19^th century, up to the small but informative Textile Museum in neighbouring Prato.

Contemporary fashion and decorative arts are also well represented at the international craft show, at the biennial fashion exhibition, and on the runways of Pitti Uomo, where the newest and best in Italian fashion is shown. During these few special days the city bustles with colourful enthusiasm.

On the other hand, the shop windows in the city centre continually display the work of Florence’s many designers following in the footsteps of the great names in fashion that began here and are now well known around the world. Strolling downtown is a pleasant way of exploring and discovering them.

Florence is famous for highly refined work in gold and precious stones, and is one of the world centres of leather fashion, good news for Leathermen and women. It’s possible to find pieces of exceptional craftsmanship tailored to fit or even custom made.

Florentines, foremost gays and lesbians, have a particular love for theatre and music. The choices vary from the winter season to popular outdoor summer events. You can choose among plays, perhaps with gay themes, poetry readings or, if you like, opera, concerts, or even ballet.

You will find yourself in good company in Florence’s theatres, from the most prestigious halls like Teatro della Pergola, Teatro Comunale with its famous May music and dance festival, or Teatro Verdi featuring the Orchestra and Balletto di Toscana, to the less traditional theatre or contemporary productions like Rifredi and La Limonaia.

Not by chance Florence has attracted and inspired gay musicians of great calibre, including Tchaikovsky, hosted in a villa on the romantic Via di San Leonardo. The walk to it offers panoramic views and passes the villa where the painter Ottone Rosai set up his studio immortalizing the winding road in his famous landscapes.

One of the crowning glories of the city is, above all, the birth of opera, which got its start at the Medici court in the Late Renaissance. Likewise, gelato (ice cream) is a Florentine original from the same time. In winter, why not try the creamier and less frozen semifreddo? Sample one before indulging in a drink and perhaps in a smile at any of the gay and lesbian locales.

Who knows, your plans might change for a new itinerary…

Pisa

Not just the leaning tower! You should tour the whole town, with its many monuments and museums, the noble river front and the medieval city centre, that inspired Leopardi, Byron, Karen Blixen and Ezra Pound. Discover its culture, its interesting student life, and the friendly gay & lesbian scene, which has being organizing for years also summer gay and lesbian cultural courses.In Springtime, you may go to the gay theatre and film festival. First town in Italy to register domestic partnerships, in 2000 a tribute to Keith Haring was paid, ten years after his mural painting in a square in town.

Pisa: Her Gay Art & History

Until the end of the last world war the Destruction of Sodom painted by Benozzo Gozzoli in the Camposanto near the Cathedral warned the faithful Christians of the fate reserved for sodomites. Unfortunately today only drawings and photos exist of it. In fact, ironically, fire did finally come from the heavens, destroying the admonishment but leaving the city’s flourishing gay scene intact.

The ancient gay culture still survives here and there. In the same cemetery we find, for example, the grand tomb Frederick II of Prussia erected in the memory of his lover Francesco Algarotti (1712-1764). Voltaire lightheartedly joked about him in a poem imagining him as "Socrates cheerful upon the rump of Alcibiades".

Among the people represented in this monument is even the bust of the Roman Emperor Hadrian, who so deeply loved the young Antinous, that he deified him after his early death. In fact, not too far away is a portrait of Antinous, at the Museum of the Opera del Duomo, which the sculptor Nanni di Banco transformed into the head of a bearded saint. A plaque along the Arno records Lord Byron’s sojourn in Pisa.

A famous womanizer, he also had relationships with young men all his life. It can’t be denied that this same ancient river front has also seen the evening walks of many a gentleman searching for something more than a moment of fresh air. In 1889, a book incredibly titled "Human Reptiles" by Alberto Costa specified among its homophobic insults Pisa’s main cruising areas "…behind the church of the Cavalieri, behind the Cathedral, and at nightfall along the banks of the Arno". So, the world may change, but gay habits stay extraordinarily the same. (G. Dall'Orto)

Viareggio

The "lady in jeans" of the Versilia Riviera still amazes. Once a chic watering hole of the belle-époque, later one of the most popular beaches in Italy. The city is sea, carnival, night clubs, cafés and shops. It has always accepted diversity, and is a delightful place to visit all year round for the many gays and lesbians who are at ease in its widely varied scene. It's certainly not news that Viareggio and the Versilia are a top tourist destination in summer.

After all, it was here that in the 19^th century great ruling families like the Bonapartes and the Bourbons, along with numerous Tuscan noble families, came to vacation. Then, according to new medical theories, the first, less exclusive seaside pavillions were created, opening the road to the popular diffusion of the practice of bathing in the sea. From this was born the new concept of the beach vacation, which changed the lifestyle of the following generations.

At the beginning of the 20^th century, Viareggio consisted of large bathing establishments and cafés, and was marked by the presence of Puccini, Viani and many other artists and writers; the town was already a meeting place where many different cultures and lifestyles met, and was characterized by its openness and sense of humour, as befits the site of Italy's most important Carnival. Viareggio remains as it was, having come and gone through various fashions, like the '60s of Mina and Patty Pravo, to today.

Now, Arcigay Toscana, a tourist association, and the local city government have created Friendly Versilia, a complete package of services and special offers for gay and lesbian tourists, promoting a culture of acceptance and international gay and lesbian tourism. The enthusiastic response of many thousands people to this program in the last few years demonstrates the potential that initiatives of this type can have and gave to the city district of Torre del Lago a large fame as a major gay holiday destination throughout Europe. Try the popular ‘aperitivo’ time, around 6pm, having a long drink and some appetizers in any gay club in Torre del Lago, or the lively and crowded night parties by the wide beach and the wild pine forest…

Lucca

The most reserved and romantic of the Tuscan cities was once the capital of an ancient, minuscule state. The town features white medieval churches, museums, palaces and a serene ambience within its walls and little squares. Among the admirers of its refined beauty, one can find lesbian and gay couples drawn to its timeless intimate charm. The city hosts nonetheless a large gay disco and a gay political association.

Massa & Carrara

The land of marble quarries and rugged quarrymen lies between a group of high, white mountains and the sea, and includes these two cities, which are quite different in character. Along beaches and hills, explore castles and churches in the green Lunigiana valley, or the Poets' Gulf, so dear to Byron and Shelley, half way between the romantic fishermen’s villages of the Cinque Terre National Park and the Tuscan Riviera.

Livorno

Tuscany's great port city was founded in 1577 on an ideal plan, with unusually liberal laws that favoured an early and rich multicultural society: a remarkable exception in all of Europe. The city centre's canals, the hidden coves of the surrounding coast, the 19^th century paintings, the seafood and the typical brand of local humour render it an unusual and exciting

Pistoia and Montecatini Terme

The medieval city at the base of beautiful mountains, with its towers and churches in multi-coloured marbles, has been animated in recent years by many events, such as experimental theatre, music, art, and ballet. Montecatini, among the most important spas in all Europe, is a modern and green town, and features many shops, cafés and clubs.

Prato

Medieval centre of the textile industry, Prato is now a large city that preserves its important historical monuments, such as the Castle, the Cathedral, the museums and the historical villas, and offers a lively cultural scene, mainly in its theatres and exhibitions of modern art. Just outside the town you will also find some gay clubs, quite popular for bears.

Arezzo

Art and unspoiled nature are blended picturesquely in eastern Tuscany. The ancient cities at the foot of the Apennines, such as Arezzo and Cortona, offer spectacular settings for visits to renowned Medieval and Renaissance monuments, enjoying Tuscan cuisine, and exploring antique markets as well as the goldsmith's and leather-worker's crafts.

Siena

Located in the centre of one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world, this city is rendered unique by a magical, Gothic atmosphere. Richly endowed with palaces, churches, squares, it is a city to see and enjoy in the company of the Sienese, the students and the foreigners who come to learn Italian, spoken here with the proper and most charming accent.

Grosseto

The main city of the Maremma plain rises amid ancient walls not far from the sea, offering both artistic and natural attractions. Nearby, the ruins of Roselle and Vetulonia, wide pristine beaches, open-air hot springs, timeless countryside and pine forests with wild oxen, horses and cowboys make for a fantastic time in the great outdoors.

Beaches

The Tuscan climate permits sun-bathing and swimming from May to October, but on warm spring days you will already find gays & lesbians on the beaches. On summer week-ends you can avoid rush hour by staying to watch the sunset over the sea. Nudism, not illegal but discouraged by possible police controls, is only done in less trafficked places.

La Lecciona, viale dei Tigli, 500 m beyond bar La Lecciona, Viareggio, 3 km S of the town, bike-paths, train stations at Viareggio and Torre del Lago, bus, long wide sandy beach, pine forest, gays & lesbians.

Le Dune - Mama Beach, viale Europa, marina di Torre del Lago, nearly in front of Adagio gay lounge bar. A real, nice bathing establishment, like the others on the Riviera, but.. 100% gay and lesbian. Featuring sun umbrellas and sun chairs rental, beach bar, showers, beach volley, in a splendid natural environment.

Sassoscritto, Nat. Road 1 "Aurelia", before restaurant Sassoscritto, at Il Romìto, Livorno, 10 km S of the town, bus from Livorno, high cliffs, little bays, gays & lesbians.

Rimigliano, Strada della Principessa, 6 km S of San Vincenzo, Livorno, sandy beach, pine forest, gays & lesbians.

Le Marze, Nat. Road 322 "delle Collacchie", 5 km S of Castiglione della Pescaia, Grosseto, next to the campsite, long sandy beach, pine forest, bike-paths, mixed gay/straight.

Maremma Regional Park, Alberese, 20 km SW of Grosseto, sandy beach at Bocca d'Ombrone, sandy bays in the Uccellina mountain coast, mixed gay/straight.

Le Piscine, between Seccheto and Fetovaia, Island of Elba, pools carved by the sea into the granite cliff, mixed gay/straight.

Other gay/straight mixed beaches are:

Tirrenia, next to the beach of the American army base;

S of Marina di Cecina;

S of Forte di Bibbona;

along the sandy strips of land of Feniglia and Giannella, close to Orbetello;

S of Chiarone Scalo, at the southern border of Tuscany.

Hot Springs & Lakes

People who prefer hot water can bathe all year round in one of the many Tuscan hot springs or, in spring and summer, you can choose to swim in lakes or ponds. Gays and lesbians have their favourites.

The Cascades of the Mill, just outside Saturnia, 55 km SE of Grosseto, hot springs, sulphureous water, always open, mixed gay/straight.

Petriolo springs, on Farma river, next to the medieval thermal building of Bagni di Petriolo, 25 km SW of Siena, hot springs, sulphureous water, always open, mixed gay/straight.

Castel Ruggero lake, via di Castel Ruggero, at La Capannuccia, near Gràssina, 10 km SE of Florence, little lake in a pine forest, on the left shore, always open, mixed gay/straight.

Lago di Bilancino, 5 km from Barberino di Mugello, 30 km N of Florence. The S bank of the lake offers a nice beach with the possibility of bathing, always open, mixed gay/straight.